We are in Puerto Escondido now, which is on the Pacific coast in the state of Oaxaca. The drive today was lovely, especially because we weren't sure what to expect. Sergio has driven this way before, but we had to leave the tolled highways when we passed Acapulco and drive along the coast on a rural highway, through villages and fields. We set out at 5 this morning from Cuernavaca (which was itself quite an adventure - we were staying at a hostel with a pet rabbit which escaped when we opened the gate to drive out, and Sergio had to chase it down the street and back into the hostel in the dark!), and hoped to make it in 9 hours but thought it would probably be more. I helped Sergio navigate out of Cuernavaca and onto the highway, then promptly fell asleep and when I woke up it was light. I asked, "Have we passed Acapulco?" (since I was supposed to help navigate the somewhat confusing task of bypassing Acapulco and changing highways), and Sergio replied, "No, but we're almost there." We successfully made it onto the road to Puerto Escondido, stopped for coffee, gas, and a newspaper, and then started what turned out to be an absolutely beautiful drive. We passed through villages that were built up around the road - in some places the road was lined with businesses, like a main street, and in others, there were only shacks, and we could see people lying on hammocks and doing their chores inside. We were struck by the poverty of some of the places we passed through, and also by the people. In all of the other places I have visited in Mexico, it seems like the population has been pretty racially diverse, but in both Guerrero and Oaxaca, everyone is very dark and indigenous-looking. Sergio and I definitely stick out down here (except in Puerto Escondido, which is the surfing capital of Mexico and populated by many hippies of all races)!
We got to Puerto Escondido around 2. It is incredibly beautiful - not at all built up like other beaches I've been to; there are no highrises or big hotels, just traditional thatched-roof buildings among the palm trees. We are staying at the same hotel Sergio and Beto stayed in when they were here a few years ago, and where they met Lila Downs, a famous Mexican singer who was also staying here at the time. It's a 5-star hotel, but Sergio got us a great price (thanks to the swine flu, everything is very cheap!!). It is right on the beach, and we had lunch in the hotel restaurant, which overlooks the water and serves incredible, authentic regional seafood and vegetarian dishes. I don't think we'll eat anywhere else while we're here! Sergio has gone to the beach now, but as I am trying to stay out of the sun, I decided to stay inside. After I unpack, I will probably go sit on our little shaded balcony and read.
We will be here for two full days, and head to San Cristobal de las Casas early Saturday morning. I am very much looking forward to having nothing to do but relax for two days, and I know Sergio will enjoy a break from driving!